Chili Crab with Mantou

Method

1. Start the mantou doughMix the flour, yeast, sugar and salt. Add the warm milk and 1 tbsp oil and knead for 8–10 minutes until smooth and springy. Cover and leave somewhere warm for about 1 hour, until doubled.
2. Dispatch the crabs humanelyPut the live crabs in the freezer for 30–60 minutes until they are completely still and sleepy. Then place each one on its back and drive a heavy knife firmly through the centre of the body in one quick motion. This is the fastest, kindest way. Pull off the top shell, remove the feathery grey gills and scrape out the guts, then rinse.
3. Break down the crabChop each body into 4 pieces with legs attached. Twist off the big claws and give each one a single sharp tap with the back of a cleaver or a rolling pin, just enough to crack the shell without smashing the meat. Pat everything dry and keep cold.
4. Shape and prove the bunsKnock back the dough, roll into a log and cut into 12 pieces. Roll each into a smooth ball, set on squares of baking paper and leave to prove for 20 minutes. Steam over boiling water for 10 minutes (this cooks them through), then let them cool a few minutes.
5. Blitz the rempahDrain the dried chillies and blend with the fresh chillies, garlic, shallots, ginger and soybean paste, adding a splash of water if needed, to a fairly smooth paste.
6. Fry the pasteHeat 3 tbsp oil in a large wok over medium heat. Fry the paste, stirring often, for 6–8 minutes until it darkens, smells sweet rather than raw, and the oil starts to separate out. Don't rush this step or the sauce will taste harsh.
7. Build the sauceStir in the ketchup, sweet chilli sauce, sugar, vinegar and salt, then add the water or stock. Bring to a simmer and taste: it should be sweet, tangy, salty and gently hot all at once. Adjust with more sugar, vinegar or salt.
8. Cook the crabTurn the heat to high and add the crab pieces, tossing to coat. Cover and cook for 8–12 minutes, turning the pieces every few minutes, until every shell is bright orange-red and the thickest claw meat is opaque.
9. Thicken and add egg ribbonsStir the cornflour slurry and pour it in, tossing until the sauce turns glossy and clings to the crab, about 1 minute. Take the wok off the heat, drizzle in the beaten egg in a thin stream and wait 10 seconds before gently folding so it sets in soft ribbons.
10. Fry the mantouWhile the crab cooks, heat the frying oil to 175°C (350°F). Fry the steamed buns in batches for 2–3 minutes, turning, until deep golden all over. Drain on paper towel.
11. Serve straight awayPile the crab and sauce onto a big platter, scatter with coriander and spring onion, and serve with the hot mantou, crab crackers, finger bowls and plenty of napkins.
12. Declare a winnerHold up a claw triumphantly. The crab is defeated, you are victorious. Hand out bibs, wet wipes and mantou for mopping, and accept that your kitchen will smell of chilli crab until next year.