Éclair

Method

1. Make the pastry cream firstHeat the milk and vanilla in a saucepan until steaming. Meanwhile whisk the yolks, sugar and cornflour in a bowl until pale and smooth. Pour a third of the hot milk onto the yolks while whisking, then pour it all back into the pan.
2. Cook it without splittingCook over medium heat, whisking constantly and getting into the corners, until it thickens. Once it starts to bubble, keep whisking for a full 1-2 minutes so the cornflour cooks out. Take off the heat, whisk in the butter, then sieve into a shallow dish. Press cling film directly onto the surface and chill for at least 2 hours.
3. Make the panadeHeat the oven to 200°C (400°F), using conventional heat rather than fan if you can (fan can dry the outside before the shells have fully puffed). Line two trays with baking paper. Bring the water, milk, butter, sugar and salt to a full rolling boil, then take off the heat and tip in all the flour at once. Beat hard with a wooden spoon until it forms a smooth ball.
4. Dry the doughReturn the pan to medium-low heat and keep beating for 2-3 minutes, until the dough leaves a thin film on the base of the pan and looks slightly glossy. This drying step is what lets it absorb enough egg to puff.
5. Add the eggs graduallyTransfer the dough to a mixer bowl (or large bowl) and beat for 2-3 minutes to cool slightly, until just warm. Add the beaten egg a little at a time, beating fully after each addition. Stop when the dough is glossy and a finger drawn through it leaves a trench that slowly closes, and when lifted on the beater it falls in a 'V' shape that hangs. You may not need all the egg.
6. Pipe uniform logsSpoon the warm dough into a piping bag fitted with a 15 mm (5/8 in) French star or plain nozzle. Hold the bag at a 45° angle and pipe 12-13 cm (5 in) logs with even pressure, spacing them 5 cm (2 in) apart. Draw guide lines on the underside of the paper first if you like. Brush lightly with beaten egg and run a wet fork down the top to help even rising.
7. Bake and don't peekBake for 15 minutes at 200°C (400°F), then lower to 170°C (340°F) and bake for a further 20-25 minutes until deep golden and firm. Do not open the oven door for the first 25 minutes or they'll collapse.
8. Dry out the centresTurn off the oven. Poke a small hole in one end of each éclair with a skewer to let the steam out, then return them to the oven with the door propped ajar for 10 minutes. Cool fully on a rack. They should be light and completely hollow.
9. Fill gentlyBeat the chilled pastry cream briefly until smooth and spoon into a piping bag with a small round or Bismarck nozzle. Poke three small holes along the base of each éclair and fill through each hole until the shell feels heavy. Wipe off any excess.
10. GlazeBring the cream and syrup just to a simmer, pour over the chocolate, wait 1 minute, then stir from the centre until glossy. Let it cool to about 32°C (90°F), slightly warm to the touch. Dip the top of each éclair, let the excess drip, then smooth with a finger. Chill for 15 minutes to set, then serve the same day.
11. Do not ask about the donutLine up the éclairs like soldiers on the plate. If anyone mentions donuts, take their éclair away. These are French and they've already been through enough emotionally.