Don't let your nonna down or she'll get the rolling pin
Osso buco literally means 'bone with a hole', and that hole is full of treasure. Low, slow and patient wins here: tie it, brown it, braise it gently and finish with a zingy gremolata that wakes the whole plate up. Nonna is watching.
The challenge
- Tying shanks properly
- Maintaining braise temperature
- Keeping marrow intact
This Milanese classic centres on cross-cut veal shanks braised until the meat surrenders and the marrow becomes buttery. The shanks need to be tied with kitchen twine to hold their shape during the long braise, and the braising liquid requires constant monitoring to keep everything submerged without boiling over.
The real prize is the marrow in the bone centre, which needs to stay intact while the surrounding meat becomes spoon-tender.
Prep: 30 minutes · Cook: 2 hours 45 minutes
Ingredients
For the osso buco
- 4 cross-cut veal shanks, about 4 cm (1.5 in) thick, roughly 300 g (10.5 oz) each
- Kitchen twine
- 40 g (1/3 cup) plain (all-purpose) flour, for dusting
- 3 tbsp olive oil
- 40 g (3 tbsp) unsalted butter
- 1 onion, 1 carrot and 1 celery stick, finely diced
- 2 garlic cloves, finely chopped
- 250 ml (1 cup) dry white wine
- 400 g (14 oz) tin chopped tomatoes
- 500 ml (2 cups) veal or chicken stock, hot
- 2 bay leaves and 3 sprigs thyme
- Salt and freshly ground black pepper
For the gremolata
- Finely grated zest of 1 unwaxed lemon
- 1 small garlic clove, very finely chopped
- 1 small bunch flat-leaf parsley, finely chopped (about 4 tbsp)
Method
- Tie the shanksPat the shanks dry. Snip the thin membrane around the edge of each one in 2 or 3 places so they don't curl. Wrap a length of twine snugly around the circumference of each shank like a belt and knot it. This holds the meat to the bone so it doesn't fall apart or let the marrow slip out.
- Season and dustHeat the oven to 160°C (320°F). Season the shanks well with salt and pepper, then dust lightly in flour, tapping off the excess. Too much flour will burn and make the sauce gluey.
- Brown properlyHeat the oil and half the butter in a heavy casserole (Dutch oven) wide enough to hold the shanks in one layer, over medium-high heat. Brown the shanks for 4-5 minutes per side until deep golden. Turn them with tongs on the meat, never by poking the marrow. Lift out onto a plate.
- Build the soffrittoLower the heat to medium, add the remaining butter, then the onion, carrot and celery with a pinch of salt. Cook for 8-10 minutes until soft and lightly golden, then add the garlic for 1 minute.
- DeglazePour in the wine and scrape up all the browned bits from the base. Bubble for 3-4 minutes until reduced by about half and no longer smells sharp.
- Set up the braiseStir in the tomatoes, bay and thyme. Return the shanks, marrow side up, in a single layer. Pour in enough hot stock to come about two-thirds of the way up the meat (not over the top of the marrow). Bring just to a simmer.
- Braise low and slowCover with a lid and transfer to the oven for 2-2.5 hours. Check every 30 minutes: you want a lazy bubble, never a rolling boil (drop the oven to 150°C / 300°F if it's bubbling hard). Top up with a splash of hot stock if the liquid drops below halfway. Baste the tops with sauce each time. It's ready when the meat yields to a spoon.
- Lift out gentlyUse a wide fish slice or slotted spatula under each shank to move them onto a warm plate, keeping them upright so the marrow stays put. Snip and remove the twine. Cover loosely with foil.
- Finish the sauceRemove the bay and thyme. Set the casserole over medium heat and simmer the sauce for 5-10 minutes until it coats the back of a spoon. Taste and adjust the seasoning.
- Gremolata and serveMix the lemon zest, garlic and parsley right before serving so it stays fresh and sharp. Spoon sauce over each shank, scatter generously with gremolata and serve with saffron risotto, soft polenta or mash. Hand out small spoons for the marrow.
- Face the nonnaServe with the marrow spoon on the side and wait for your harshest critic to taste it. If the rolling pin stays in the drawer, you've passed. If she asks for seconds, you're officially in the will.
Tips from the trenches
- Ask your butcher for shanks from the hind leg cut 4 cm (1.5 in) thick: they're meatier and the marrow is bigger.
- Tie the twine snugly but not tight enough to cut into the meat, it should just stop the shank spreading as it softens.
- A heavy cast-iron pot in the oven holds a far steadier temperature than the stovetop, so it's your best friend for a gentle braise.
- It's even better the next day: chill in the sauce, lift off any fat, then reheat gently at 160°C (320°F) for 30-40 minutes.
“Gastronomy is the art of using food to create happiness.”— Théodore Zeldin
